A Letter to Social Workers for the New Year

Danna Bodenheimer has some thoughts for social workers for New Year 2018. These are not exactly resolutions - more a sharing of myths that she refuses to continue to subscribe to, some goals, and a mantra. Happy New Year!

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So long, 2017, and thanks for all the fish.

I hadn’t planned on doing a New Year’s post this year – I already told you I was signing off for a winter hiatus, and I intend to get back to that after this – but I wanted to acknowledge something before the year officially ended.

2017 was a hard year for many reasons, both personal and political, but it was a fantastic year for Diamonds in the Library.

2017 brought my first visit to the gem shows in Tucson and my first Aryle Pink Diamond Tender (which was incredible, although hard to photograph).

Continue reading So long, 2017, and thanks for all the fish. at Diamonds in the Library.

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Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Skin Diving, Freediving: What’s the Difference?

For someone just discovering the world of underwater sports, there’s seemingly no end to the different disciplines. The most common are the ones in the headline: scuba diving, snorkeling, skin diving, and freediving. But what’s the difference between them?

While there are somewhat clear definitions, there’s also considerable overlap, so some might disagree with these definitions. They are slightly too simplistic by design to help newbies tell the different sports apart. And ultimately, opinions will differ. With that disclaimer, let’s give it a go: what’s the difference between scuba diving, snorkeling, skin diving and freediving?

Scuba Diving

This one is the easiest to define. Scuba is the abbreviation for “Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus,” which is an old term for the combination of a scuba tank and regulator. So, if you’re wearing a tank on your back and breathing through a mouthpiece connected to that tank, you’re scuba diving. You’ll wear a mask to help you see, fins to help with propulsion and a BCD to control buouancy. You’ll also usually wear some sort of exposure protection, such as a rash-guard in the tropics, a wetsuit in temperate climes, or a drysuit in cold water. Boots are often part of this exposure protection, and if so, your fins will have heel straps or bungees. Scuba diving involves specialized training and certification.

Snorkeling

Snorkeling is the most popular option on our list, and the one that you can enjoy with the least amount of experience. In snorkeling, you stay on the surface, looking down through a mask and breathing through a snorkel. You don’t have to lift your head to breathe. You may wear exposure protection, usually a rash-guard or wetsuit, but in some places you may even need a drysuit. Snorkeling fins are softer than scuba fins and, rather than using a heel strap, they’ll slip over your full foot without a boot. Some snorkelers also wear floatation vests, especially if they’re not particularly strong swimmers.

Freediving

Freediving is not a new sport per se, but it has seen a dramatic spike in popularity. Unlike the others on this list, freediving is largely a competitive sport. It consists of various disciplines, all centered around the same principle: staying underwater for as long as possible on a single breath. Disciplines range from static apnea, where you lie stationary, face-down in a pool, holding your breath for as long as you can to ones where you have to cover as much distance horizontally or vertically as you can. Freedivers wear masks that are often a blend between a dive mask and swim goggles, but do not use snorkels. You also wear exposure protection, usually wetsuits. You’ll rarely (if ever) see a freediver in a drysuit. Freedivers sometimes wear fins, although some disciplines don’t use them. They’re usually either very long, full-foot fins, or a monofin — a single, broad-bladed fin that you wear on both feet. This creates a profile similar to a fish tail. Freedivers focus on the diving, spending little time at the surface apart from surface intervals and recuperation time.

Skin diving

A somewhat antiquated term, skin diving refers to a mix of snorkeling and freediving. A skin diver spends time at the surface, looking down on the landscape below while breathing through a snorkel, and does breath-hold dives, swimming down to observe interesting objects or marine life. Many advanced snorkelers practice skin diving, as well as freedivers just diving for fun rather than competition or training. Skin divers wear masks, snorkels and sometimes wetsuits, depending on water temperature. Drysuits are not appropriate. Fins can be either snorkeling or freediving fins.

Again, the lines between each discipline — except scuba diving — can get blurry. Not everyone will necessarily agree with our distinctions but, at the very least, they might help a novice get an idea of what to expect.

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Training Fundamentals: The Dunning-Kruger Diver

 

Often, dive accidents and incidents are due to the Dunning-Kruger effect: diver error caused by the dissonance between the diver’s overconfidence in his own abilities and his actual abilities. What are common signs of a Dunning-Kruger diver, and how do you avoid becoming one?

Diving is a very safe sport, with quite a small number of serious injuries and fatalities.

However, according to a recent report by Divers Alert Network, a disproportionately large number of serious injuries and fatalities befell recreational divers on pleasure and sightseeing dives. In fact, 66 percent of fatalities in the 2016 report fall into this category. A considerably smaller proportion of incidents occur in training situations, when experts work within set training parameters. The overwhelming reason for diver accidents is diver error, as mentioned, and one of the key drivers may be the psychological phenomenon known as the Dunning-Kruger Effect.

The Psychology: Unskilled and unaware

Two Cornell University professors, David Dunning and Justin Kruger, first explained their findings in 1999. Their research indicated a cognitive bias in novices within widespread fields, from tennis to medicine, to chess. The bias presents in novices as a belief that they are much more competent than they really are. As Dunning put it, “If you’re incompetent, you can’t know you’re incompetent…The skills you need to produce a right answer are exactly the skills you need to recognize what a right answer is.”

These blind spots in cognition leave novices in any given field, including scuba diving, with difficulty recognizing their own shortcomings, and may lead to inflated self-assessments of skill and knowledge level.

Dunning-Kruger indicators in scuba diving

Scuba diving is a never-ending learning curve of evolving skills and new technology. Naturally, in those first few qualifying dives, there is much to learn. During the first 10 to 100 dives, there is often a rush of confidence in novice divers disproportionate to their competence. The curve of confidence and perceived competence (picture above) often peaks in that range. Then, after gaining some knowledge and after some self-reflection, the diver forms a more realistic assessment of their actual abilities and competence. The curve of the diver’s confidence drops away as they begin Rescue, Divemaster or technical-diver training and realizes the length of the road ahead.

Subsequently, confidence and competence grow together as a diver gains new skills and experiences over the longer term. Although note that even experts lack the supreme confidence of those at the early “peak,” as they have the wherewithal to understand that there is always more to learn.

Signs of a Dunning-Kruger diver

Divers in that initial 10 to 100 logged-dives range are often receptive to advice and open to learning new scuba skills, or receiving coaching. Those at the peak of the early confidence curve, however, often exhibit traits that can frustrate their buddies and dive center staff or, potentially, lead to hazardous behavior. Here are a few signs of a Dunning-Kruger diver: have you (or someone you know) ever exhibited any of these behaviors?

Ignoring equipment advice

Having the right equipment for your level of diving and environment is key. It would be unwise, for example, to take warm-water rated regulator into water. Local instructors, divemasters and dive center staff will often make recommendations based on your planned dives and experience level, whether that’s having a reel and SMB, using nitrox, or the suitability of your BCD, regulator, exposure suit or hood.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often spurn the advice of divers more experienced or qualified in that diving activity or environment. For example, they may insist on taking gloves, a pointer or a shaker — despite a ban in the marine park or advice not to use them from a local guide. Alternatively, the diver may insist that they don’t need a hood or gloves in a tougher environment, finding themselves cold as the dive progresses to depth or exposing them to hazards on a wreck dive.

Solution: Listen to the advice of experienced local divers and staff. They know the waters, procedures and suitable equipment for the dives.

Ignoring training course advice

If you want to advance your diver training, who better to consult than your instructor? They know the training standards, curriculum, and requirements of the various training courses in detail. Especially if they’ve already completed some training with you, the instructor can give you honest and constructive feedback as to whether you’re a suitable candidate.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often be wholeheartedly convinced they’re capable of being a divemaster, instructor or technical diver after their first training dives, despite knowing little of the training standards, curriculum, and responsibilities. Conversely, the diver may be offended if he receives delicate advice from an instructor that he should gain more experience before progressing. The Dunning-Kruger diver will often ignore this advice and push to sign up in the course with an alternate instructor.

Solution: While ambition and enthusiasm for further training are admirable qualities, take the advice you receive and learn to walk before you run if so advised. Taking your time can prevent needless risks to yourself and fellow divers in your group.

Spurning technique advice

Sometimes when supervising certified divers, instructors, divemasters and guides will offer advice and tips outside of the confines of a course. This can be on a liveaboard or during a guided boat or shore dive. It may be that, having observed the diver in the water, the professional offers advice on technique such as getting in/out of their equipment, buoyancy control, positioning, weighting, finning technique or even tips for diving motor skills such as deploying an SMB from depth more effectively.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often rebuff, discard or discount advice from the professional diver. They may even, in some cases, attempt to rationalize their behavior or argue that they’re correct and the professional is wrong. For example, a diver with volatile buoyancy may be convinced the equipment is at fault rather than accept advice from a professional.

Solution: Instructors, divemasters and guides sometimes offer coaching to recreational divers to help make the diver’s experience safer and more enjoyable on future dives. Don’t be offended if offered advice. These people are trying to help you and your buddies have a better experience.

Ignoring the rules (part 1)

Training agencies set procedures and limits based on data from thousands of training dives, test dives and accident statistics gathered from across the planet. Depth limits, dive procedures and training recommendations filter down to form the ever-evolving training standards we all agree upon. For example, it requires additional training to safely dive beyond recreational limits, inside wrecks or in a drysuit.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often flaunt training limits — even reveling in ignoring them as a badge of honor. They’ll often regard their survival as misguided validation that they have the skills required to repeat the feat. They may also take unsuitably qualified buddies beyond their training limits, putting others at risk as well.

Solution: Agencies carefully research the standards for each training level. These are backed up with valid statistical and educational information. If you seek more challenging dives, get the correct training first.

Ignoring the rules (Part 2)

Each diving environment is subtly different. The entries, exits, boat procedures, marine interaction and local etiquette can vary wildly from region to region. The procedures for diving a wreck are different to those for diving a reef. There are hundreds of variables. Local dive-industry professionals define their procedures within the briefings to minimize risks and ensure group safety in coordination with boat crews and local authorities.

The Dunning-Kruger diver dismisses the local procedures and instructions in the briefing. They may feel they already have the necessary knowledge or believe their method is superior. This can lead the diver to cause safety issues that would, otherwise, be easily avoided. Diving headaches such as the diver not entering/exiting the water correctly, signaling as required, being swept away in a current or, alternatively, raising the alarm due to buddy separation, are usually due to the diver not paying attention to (or disregarding) procedures.

Solution: The procedures that are in place exist for valid reasons — to preserve the dive site and, importantly, diver safety. Listen to the dive briefing. If anything is unclear, ask for clarification.

The metacognition we call the Dunning-Kruger effect should cause us all to pause and consider our own actions. The effect may explain the occasionally frustrating overconfidence of some of your dive buddies. Realizing that we’re all still learning may help us seek out the best advice and training, improve as divers and be safer and more skillful in the water.

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Self-Care, A-Z: A "Word" About Self-Care in 2018

As we begin 2018, join us in a simple, yet powerful, self-care resolution. The One Word ritual is counter to complicated lists of resolutions.What is YOUR word?

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Macro Photography in Utila Part II: How to Get the Shot

In our last article on macro photography in Utila, we introduced you to Brad Ryon, a realtor and underwater photographer on Utila, one of the Bay Islands in Honduras. The island is a paradise for macro photographers, and you needn’t be a professional photographer to take advantage of the opportunities in the island’s waters. Here, we’ll focus on tips and tricks that Ryon has picked up along the way, and also offer some relatively affordable equipment suggestions.

Buying the right equipment

Many divers want to take better pictures underwater, but macro often seems out of reach, especially to amateurs who may eye the giant camera rigs they see on the boat with unease. Although big DSLR rigs are undoubtedly spectacular at the job, you can capture good macro images as well with a far smaller, more affordable set up.

Ryon used DSLRs above-water, but he found an underwater rig — with multiple lenses and strobes — too bulky and costly for not much difference in result with macro shots When looking for your first underwater camera for macro photography, Ryon recommends something with a built-in flash, a microscope mode and an underwater housing. Both the Olympus TG-5and the Canon G series are good options. Some of the G-series cameras have a focus range of 1 cm/half inch and, by adding diopters or magnification lenses to the underwater housing, you can capture extremely small creatures or amazing close-up details. There are several strobes that work well for macro photography, but you can also get good results with a video light or even a torch if you don’t have the budget for a separate strobe.  

Before your first shot

Once you’ve chosen your rig, Ryon has a few tips before you even begin shooting.

Practice good buoyancy

Avoiding contact with the reef and reef creatures demands good diving skills and good buoyancy. Both are a must before you attempt to take macro photos. You must be able to take your time and visit small, controlled areas. Whenever you enter the water, marine life disperses, so you must hover quietly and let the reef creatures return to more normal behavior. Additionally, you must go very slow unless you’re looking for something specific. The key is to stay as still as possible, control your breathing and move very slowly.

When it comes to your camera, start small

Ryon’s first camera was a high-end point-and-shoot with an underwater housing and no lights or strobes. It had a built-in +3 macro setting, but that was it. He learned that he did not need a big rig to photograph the reef if he got closer and used natural light.   Your first camera doesn’t need to be complicated, and you can even start with the standard macro setting on most cameras (the flower button). Once you have improved your skills, purchase a camera with either a microscope mode or a housing that allows you to add a diopter or magnification lens. There will be a lot to learn once you upgrade, and the time to learn how to work your rig is not on the dive with living creatures.

Practice in a pool or topside

Practice in a pool with sinkable toys or other objects before trying to photograph on the reef. When diving, look for stuff in sand or gravel, as it is much safer for beginners to photograph there first. Macro opportunities depend on what you’re looking for related to reef or sand, but you must be deep enough to be out of surge. You must stay aware of everything around you on a reef, so wait until you are very experienced and have excellent buoyancy before trying to photograph close to the reef. You can also practice lighting techniques in the pool with sinkable toys. You want to get as close as possible to a subject underwater to eliminate sedimentation, but lighting can become a problem when you’re so close. If you’re using the built-in flash, it will cast a shadow from the housing. You won’t know at what distance this happens without practicing.

Know the habitat and what you’ll find there

Ryon says it is less about the equipment and more about doing your research and taking time to get the shot. He recommends that new photographers invest in a book called “The Underwater Photographer,” by Martin Edge. It’s also helpful to study the reef books written by Ned DeLoach or others to help narrow down what you are looking for and where to look.  

Doing your homework will help prepare you for what you will find, and help you learn where to look for something specific. You can also practice setting up your camera to get the shot. Time of day and conditions are usually not as much of an issue with macro photography as they are with other types of underwater photography, unless you’re looking for nighttime creatures. You can shoot macro in almost any environment, other than strong surge or rough seas, because there is very little water between you and the subject to affect clarity if the water is murky. 

Take your time

Once you’ve done your research, slow down. Take your time on the dive. Ryon says he used to swim right over critters, but now he knows where to look and what to look for. Fin slowly (if at all), and examine the areas you’re diving over. Look closely at soft corals for stuff crawling around. Over time you will learn where to look — if you know what you’re looking for and where it should be, you can often find it. 

Final tips for macro photography

Once you’ve dialed in your buoyancy and know what you’re looking for, it’s time to start honing your photography skills. Here are a few of Ryon’s top tips.

• Start with affordable set-up because the more expensive ones won’t necessarily make you successful. Allow your skills to outgrow the camera before you move up. 
• Always shoot on the manual setting and at the fastest shutter speed possible, unless you’re trying to achieve a specific effect. A camera flash typically will typically sync around 1/250^th of a second, but Ryon uses a camera with a flash sync at 1/4000^th of a second. This helps capture quick action and produces sharp images, because the action will blur if the shutter speed is too slow.
• Camera angle is important. Try not to photograph from above your subject. Either get straight on or underneath to make a shot more interesting and to achieve better characteristics and color. This is where good buoyancy comes in.
• You may not be able to make out a creature until you look at the picture later. Ryon has taken pictures of what looks like a speck of dirt, but often finds out it was a creature.

Focus on dive skills before photography, but once you are a seasoned diver, macro photography can be an exciting addition to your dives. Find a set-up that is within your skill level and budget and get to know it well, and practice with it before you go diving.  Finally, slow down and take the time to look for stuff. Macro photography will be within your reach in no time.

 

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Your favorite jewels of 2017.

All right, my darlings. It’s here: our final post of 2017.

What better use for such a momentous occasion than to review what you loved the most this year? I’m talking, of course, about our limited context: which Diamonds in the Library posts you shared the most frequently and read the most often in 2017.

It’s a great mix of antique and contemporary jewelry, show recaps, how-to’s, and designer features. So many of my favorite posts of the year are on here (including both my suffragette post and my feminist jewelry post!).

Continue reading Your favorite jewels of 2017. at Diamonds in the Library.

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The New Social Worker Top 6 Articles for 2017, Editor's Picks, and More!

The New Social Worker magazine presents its top six articles of 2017, plus Editor's Picks, and what will be new in 2018.

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NOAA National Marine Sanctuary Shipwrecks: City of Washington

National marine sanctuaries protect some of America’s most spectacular marine and Great Lakes waters, making them fantastic places to dive and snorkel. One of the most fascinating underwater adventures comes from exploring the national marine sanctuary system’s shipwrecks, such as City of Washington.

Divers visiting Key Largo in Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary have many options, such as the deep wreck of the USS Spiegel Grove or the composite sailing ship Slobodna on Molasses Reef. The City of Washington on Elbow Reef, however, is a can’t-miss wreck. Crystal-clear water no more than 30 feet (10 m) deep reveals the lower hull of this steamship, captured by the coral reef.

History of the City of Washington 

The City of Washington was built on the Delaware River at Chester, Pennsylvania. The Roach shipyard launched the 300-foot (90 m) steamship in August 1877 for Alexandre and Sons to run between New York and Cuba. Competition between steamship lines to Cuba led to the Ward line’s dominance. Subsequently, the company bought out Alexandre and Sons and took control of City of Washington in 1888.

Ten years later, City of Washington was anchored in Havana harbor the night the USS Maine exploded. Its crew launched boats and helped rescue sailors in the water. The U.S. government then chartered the steamer from the Ward line as a troop transport during the Spanish American War. City of Washington carried U.S. soldiers to Cuba for the island’s invasion. By 1908, the steamship no longer met the needs of the traveling public and, within a few years, the Luckenbach Steamship Co. stripped out the steamer’s machinery and removed its upper deck, converting it to a schooner barge.

After many successful trips through the treacherous Florida Straits, a violent electrical storm in July 1917 caused the tug Luckenbach #4 and its consort barges Seneca and City of Washington to ground on Elbow Reef. The tug and Seneca refloated undamaged on the next high tide, but City of Washington was stuck fast. The USCG Cutter Tampa and Luckenbach #4 tried unsuccessfully to pull it off the reef. Valued at $266,000 with 3,500 tons of coal worth $17,500 in its hold, City of Washington was a total loss. Salvage of the vessel’s hull and its coal cargo followed by numerous hurricanes and battering waves split open the hull, reducing it to the low-lying structure seen today.

Diving the City of Washington

City of Washington has been a favorite dive site for decades. It is part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary Shipwreck Trail. This route consists of nine historical shipwrecks scattered from Key West to Key Largo. Like all of the shipwreck trail sites, City of Washington features abundant, colorful marine life. Its many nooks and crannies hold lobster, eels, spotted drum, and other shy creatures. Large groupers and nurse sharks like the crevices in the ship’s hull, too. But divers can also see them swimming around the wreck. The firsts divers in the water can usually see turtles, barracuda, and tarpon. Pieces of the steamship’s hull projecting into the water column are festooned with encrusting invertebrates like sponges and sea fans taking advantage of superb filter-feeding opportunities. Key Largo dive charters visit the shipwreck almost daily, making it an easy outing to fit into a trip.

Divers visiting City of Washington should not damage or disturb the wreck. Like all shipwrecks in Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, protective regulations seek to preserve it for future visitors. Likewise, the Elbow Reef Sanctuary Preservation Area protects the wreck’s marine life and prohibits fishing and lobstering.

Indiana University’s Center for Underwater Science has led a multi-decade research program to archaeologically investigate the shipwreck, categorize its marine life, and monitor it for changes. Most recently, university researchers, in partnership with the sanctuary’s managers and the Boy Scouts of America, collected imagery that was compiled into an interactive 3D model of the shipwreck. The model has already proven to be a very helpful sanctuary management tool. Recent monitoring visits to the shipwreck by sanctuary divers compared the pre-Hurricane Irma model to its current condition. Fortunately, little change was found to the shipwreck’s structure and it remains a great dive.

Guest author Matthew Lawrence is a maritime archaeologist for Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.

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My favorite reads of 2017.

I thought I read a lot of books in 2016. Then Donald Trump became President, and my anxiety levels skyrocketed. My favorite way to self-soothe is reading, so my 2017 book total blows 2016 out of the water.

234 is a new personal record. What can I say? Books make me feel better. Lots of re-reading this year, too. Sometimes you just need to read a book that you already know you love.

Continue reading My favorite reads of 2017. at Diamonds in the Library.

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The Paralenz Dive Camera: Tested by Divers for Divers

As you might have read in the previous article, “The Paralenz Dive Camera Is Here,” this brand-new underwater-action camera has introduced some groundbreaking features to underwater videography. The Paralenz was developed for divers, by divers. This is apparent in every aspect of its design, from the form-factor and mounting system to amazing new features like depth-controlled color-correction (DCC), which eliminates the need for color filters. It’s got a 200-m depth-rating straight out of the box, no external housing needed. These are just some of the reasons we think the Paralenz is the best underwater action camera for divers, but don’t take our word for it — here’s what five of our top reviewers think.

Andy Harris 

Andy Harris is a PADI Divemaster and avid amateur photographer. 

“I’ve worked out that from now on in, I will only need the Paralenz on my dive trips,” says Harris. “That means after weighing all the rest of my camera gear, I’m going to be saving around 15 to 18 pounds (7 to 8 kg) on my luggage allowance. Whoop whoop!”

Chase Johnson

Avid spearfisher and firefighter Chase Johnson lives in Hawaii. He frequently goes freediving with his son when he’s not busy putting out fires.

“I have used some of the other popular action cameras, but they don’t compare to the Paralenz when it comes to diving,” says Johnson.

“My favorite Paralenz feature is that it automatically color corrects your footage when you dive. So much color disappears when you dive underwater and it is obvious with other cameras. This is not an issue with Paralenz. The camera automatically adjusts for the color loss, making the quality of footage amazing. Your videos just come out better looking, clearer, and so crisp that they don’t need to be edited to look great. Simply put, it’s the best action camera there is for diving”  

Elyse Labont

Elyse Labont lives in Canada and does most of her diving with her local dive club.

“I loved that without much knowledge about underwater videos I was able to produce some awesome videos without any modification,” she says. “I love the DCC! For someone new to video-making like me, it makes it so much more accessible. I have a feeling I am making a moon jump in terms of learning compared with any other camera.”

Emily Pepperman

“I have had a few different cameras that you could use underwater,” says Pepperman, a trimix diver and Divemaster.

“All of them needed a separate housing. I didn’t like diving with them and usually worried about flooding. I found most of the cameras were distracting to my diving overall. The simplicity and different mask mount makes the Paralenz less intrusive in my dives, but I still feel I’ll catch the shots when I want to.

Jesper Stechmann

Jesper Stechmann is a former freediving world champion who runs a dive center in Malta with his wife.

“When freediving, we are often moving quite fast through the water, with many dives to and from the surface,” he says.

“I have tried red filters on other cameras, but when freediving they are not really practical because we move so much up and down. So, the automatic filter is a big plus for me. Also, the depth-clearance of 656 feet (200 m) makes the Paralenz useful as both a bottom camera for competition setups and for deep freediving videos.”

 

 

 

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U.S., China and India Reject U.N. Plastic Resolution

Initial hope for a strong response to addressing the plastic problem in our oceans has faded. At an environmental summit in Kenya early in December, three major players blocked the adoption of internationally agreed-upon goals. A watered-down resolution did pass, wherein countries agreed that the world must stop plastics from entering the ocean and should establish a taskforce to study the issue. But unfortunately, there is no timetable for such a task force or legally binding elements for countries, which makes the resolution almost entirely toothless and a largely token gesture.

The United States, China, and India — three of the world’s worst offenders — rejected a stronger motion with specific, agreed-upon goals for countries to take up targets for reducing plastics. Although governments are finally beginning to take the issue more seriously, they must begin to set and achieve measurable goals.

While there was no firm global consensus in the form of a strong U.N. resolution, many countries took a stand at the meeting and unilaterally declared tougher action against plastic bags. Both South Africa and Cameroon declared a new tax on single-use plastic bags. The following African nations also have a near-total ban; Mauretania, Senegal, Ivory Coast, Mali, Ghana, Kenya, Ethiopia, Malawi, Mauritius, Zanzibar and Uganda.

Let’s hope that more government take this issue seriously and act to help save our oceans from the curse of plastic pollution before it’s too late.

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Marine Species: Salmon Shark

Despite having a stable conservation status in the North Pacific Ocean, from the Subarctic to more temperate waters, divers and snorkelers rarely see the elusive salmon shark. Alaska’s frigid waters are one of the only places in the world to see the sharks on snorkel, with expeditions each summer. The sharks roam between the surface and a depth of 700 feet (225 m).

What is the salmon shark?

The salmon shark (Lamna ditropis) is in the mackerel shark family, which means that they have large teeth, crescent-shaped tails and conical heads. Salmon sharks are sometimes misidentified as other species, such as the great white, mako or porbeagle. Like the other mackerel sharks, the salmon shark has dark gray/blackish coloring on top, and light or white markings on its belly. Its thick, muscular double-keel tail is uncommon among sharks, although it is quite like the porbeagle’s, so the two species are often misidentified. The salmon shark has a large, dark eye, long gill slits, and large, sharp teeth that it uses to prey on a variety of animals such as squid, sea otters, birds, and — of course — salmon.

Salmon shark behavior

Scientists think salmon sharks can reach a maximum age of 25 years and a length of 10 feet (3 m). They weigh around 1,100 pounds (500 kg). Salmon sharks migrate to follow prey and segregate depending on age and sex. For example, the male salmon shark travels further north to hunt, where its unusually high body temperature allows it to hunt in colder conditions. Although scientists have discovered that females have a litter of two to five pups every spring, salmon sharks remain one of the least well-studied of all shark species. Although they occasionally end up as bycatch in pelagic waters, fortunately the IUCN categorizes them as of ‘least concern’ on the IUCN Red List.

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Animals and Underwater Photography Angles

When it comes to photography, angles can be extremely important. They help give the subject a sense of character and can often convey how the photographer intends the audience to feel about the image. Underwater, a photographer must often choose angles in a split second and cannot adjust them in post-processing like other elements. Once you’ve become technically competent with camera equipment underwater, the next step — and the mark of an advanced photographer — is planning your shots and angles quickly based on how you feel as subjects come into the frame. Change the entire feeling of a photograph by using one of these photography angles.

Standard photography angles

Consider first the three common, compositional angles you’ll see while looking at underwater (UW) images: from above, from straight on, and from below.

Most new UW photographers start by shooting from above; they often snap in excitement at a new or different animal or place. Although common, this style does have its place. Try to use it more artistically, such as by capturing the pattern from above on a turtle’s shell, as shown here. Often to execute a good from-above shot, you’ll need multiple elements in the frame. These will help set the scene and mood.

The straight-on shot often conveys (although every subject is unique) a non-threatening feeling. This is how you would photograph a friend or someone you are fond of. The subject may be calm and friendly, or indifferent to you and your camera’s presence. Animals such as nudibranchs often make great straight-on subjects as they are so colorful.

The from-below shot is one of the most common shark-photography techniques you’ll see. The angle gives the animal a sense of presence and power, and can make it appear intimidating. When shot from above, a shark looks far less “scary.” Try this technique on various animals and you’ll see how easily a seahorse goes from being cute or adorable to looking proud and regal.

Remember, there are no hard-and-fast rules. A stingray will often look threatening from above, with a big barb on display, but harmless from below as its mouth curves into a perceived smile. 

Using intermediate techniques

Intermediate angles are those that appear within the photograph. While they still depend on the composition, they are meant to influence the viewer’s perception of the emotion an animal may be feeling. Simpler angles showcase the overall nature of the underwater creature.

The angle the subject is facing within the frame and the direction the animal appears to be looking can create different feelings within the audience. For example, a seahorse angled so that it appears to look into the frame and at the viewer will invoke a feeling of curiosity and interest. If, alternately, it is looking away, the photographer can convey a feeling of pondering or deep thought.

A photographer can place a subject at a horizontal or vertical angle to show active feelings. Looking up and out into blue water may make the viewer feel as though the subject is light and happy, while looking down into the photo may portray a feeling of aggression or intensity. Again, these are not hard-and-fast rules. Often a nudibranch looking down and into the frame emits a curious vibe, while looking up and out can portray a seemingly scared or cautious subject.

Also consider taking a photo straight-on from behind. This can create a fantastic sense of movement and speed or an intense pondering vibe. Taking a side-on photograph will often present a cautious animal, one who is not feeling threatened but does not trust you in the slightest.

Work your way through the above-mentioned angles and try to combine them so that you are conveying the feelings you had about the sea life into your image. After all, that’s why many divers shoot cameras underwater — reliving a dive through your images is a fantastic feeling. Choosing the right photography angles can really help put you back in the moment.

Photography angles examples

I’ve listed a few specific examples of common animal angles to help you understand some of the above-mentioned ideas. Practice often with different types of shots and you’ll soon figure out which angles work best for your photography.

Seahorses

Above: Innocent or scared

Straight on: Cautious and apprehensive

Below: Dominant and unafraid

Behind: A sense of wonder or movement

Stingrays

Above: Dangerous or fearsome

Straight on: Curious

Below: Friendly and regal

Side on: A sense of movement

Sharks

Above: Curious

Straight on: Cunning

Below: Threatening and scary

Behind: Relief

Nudibranchs

Above: Often not a feeling but a good highlight of color contrast

Straight on: A sense of movement and curiosity

Below: Determined and regal

Anemonefish

Above: Scared

Straight on: Aggressive and defensive

Below: Confident and in control

Side on: Confused and confounded

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Marine Species: Mako Shark

There are two species of mako shark, the shortfin and the longfin. The shortfin is far more common, and there are few places in the world to spot them.

Biology of the mako shark

The mako shark is classified as a mackerel shark, part of the same family as species such as the great white, porbeagle and salmon shark. There are two subspecies of mako shark, the shortfin and the longfin. They are almost identical, except that the incredibly rare longfin has slightly elongated pectoral fins. Longfin makos can reach 14 feet (4.5 m), while shortfin makos are slightly smaller. A fully mature female typically reaches 13 feet (4 m).

The shortfin mako is the fastest shark in the world, reaching speeds in bursts of up to 42 miles per hour (68 kph). Just like other species of mackerel sharks, the mako has a complex circulatory system. This effectively makes it warm-blooded, capable of reaching body temperatures 5-7 degrees Celsius higher than the surrounding water. This biological adaptation allows these faster bursts of speed, and the ability to jump 20 feet (6 m) into the air.

The mako is often shy, preferring hunting scenarios over chumming conditions. While species such as the blue shark are scavengers, the mako hunts live prey such as dolphins, tuna, billfish and seabirds.  For this reason, you’ll often see makos on the periphery of dives, lurking in the distance. If there is an especially large individual, it may approach to impose its size.

Where to spot makos

Makos are found in warm to temperate waters around the world. Usually pelagic roaming, they are often extremely close to shore. The mako prefers waters that range from 62 to 73 F (17 to 23 degrees C).

Pico Island, Azores

Situated in the Azorean archipelago, Pico Island is one of the world’s premiere places to spot the world’s largest makos. Between July and October, divers and snorkelers can observe blue and mako sharks congregating around sea-mounts that protrude from the mid-Atlantic ridge. While they’re often elusive, diving in the pristine waters of the Azores’ pristine waters in search of these apex predators is an unparalleled experience.

Cape Town, South Africa

Three hours from Cape Point, the waters of southern Africa turn from dark and cold to warm and blue. Here, where the currents converge, the pelagic species roam. Divers can see schooling yellowfin tuna, pelagic birds and up to 30 blue sharks together. There is a very high success rate when it comes to seeing makos on these trips as well from October to July.

Rhode Island, United States

In the emerald-green waters off the east coast of the United States, divers can do a cage dive with mako and blue sharks in season. The best months to spot makos are August and September. Once a prime area for sports fishing, many companies have realized the value of encountering makos alive.

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Caribbean Coral Roundup: Star Coral

Star coral may not be the flashiest species, but this important reef-building coral dominates Caribbean reefs. The Caribbean is home to four species of star coral in two genera; here we’ll discuss how to identify all four species. If you’re just learning how to identify coral, read about coral biology here to learn important terms for identification.

Star coral is an encrusting or platting species that forms rather large colonies. Each coral averages a few feet in diameter, but leave it to grow uninterrupted and there’s no stopping star coral. We found a giant colony of mountainous star coral while diving in Honduras, a whopping 23 feet wide and 13 feet high, estimated to be over 500 years old.

Orbicella and Montastrea

There are three species of star coral in the genus Orbicella. Orbicella annularis and Orbicella franski share the common name “boulder star coral.” The third species is Orbicella faveolata, or mountainous star coral. The final species is Montastrea cavernosa, or great star coral, and it is the only coral left in the genus Montastrea.

Until recently, all three Orbicella species were classified as Montastrea. Although they share star-like corallites, the overall colony shapes, coloration and — most of all — corallite size differs noticeably. Using molecular data and general appearance, a study from 2012 reclassified three Montastrea star corals into the Orbicella genus.

You will find a handful of other Caribbean corals which use star in their common name. We’ll focus on Orbicella and Montastrea star corals as they are the most common and easy to identify. Check out this coral identification guide if you’d like to identify other star corals.

Boulder star coral (annularis)

Orbicella annularis grows in clusters of long. thick columns with domed tops. The small corallites extend above the coral’s surface and are usually 5 mm across. O. annularis is mostly yellow but can also be gray or blue.

Orbicella annularis is commonly called boulder star coral because the pillars that the colony creates look like small boulders. If you look between the boulders, tissue and coral skeleton connects each pillar. If sediments build up between the pillars, the tissue can die but the colony will survive at the surface. 

Boulder star coral (franski) 

Orbicella franksi grows into large plates or encrusting mounds, and irregularly shaped nodules cover the colony’s surface. This is the most uncommon Orbicella, as well as the deepest of all three species.

The corallites are shaped like small cones. They are irregular in shape and size, ranging from 2.5 to 4 mm in diameter. The coral is orange-brown, greenish-brown or grayish-brown, but the extremities of the lumps can be pale or white.

O. Franski is also called boulder star coral, and it looks much like other Orbicella species. The biggest difference with this coral is the corallite structure, which forms uneven clumps as mentioned.

Mountainous star coral 

The common name for Orbicella faveolata is mountainous star coral because colonies can grow to an impressive size, and the surface often features characteristic peaks and ridges like a mountain. Polyps are small at around 5 mm across. When Orbicella retracts its polyps, corallites have tiny grooves, which gives it a star-like appearance.

It’s difficult to tell the corallite structure of all three Orbicella species apart. Thusly, focus on the colony shape, surface texture, and size to identify each species. If this is your first try at identifying star coral, focus on identifying Orbicella corallites. Next, try identifying each species.

Great star coral

Montastrea cavernosa is easy to spot on almost every Caribbean reef. This coral has bulbous, puffy corallites and grows in bright, eye-catching colors. Montastrea forms massive colonies, which can be flat or domed.

Montastrea corals can be a solid color like pink, blue, red, and green, or they can have contrasting corallites and tissue color. We’ve found blue colonies with yellow corallites, white colonies with brown corallites, and — my all-time favorite — the sunset Montastrea coloration in the image above.

These are commonly called great star corals because of their large corallites. This hardy coral can grow in most reef habitats, and you may even spot a colony while snorkeling.

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